When a team of European scientists landed the Philae space probe on Comet 67P, the fantastic feat was cheered all around the world and demonstrated that, when ingenious minds collaborate, great things can be achieved. Admittedly, the gathering of cosmetic chemists at the recent 28th Congress of the International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists (IFSCC) didn’t garner the same media attention nor worldwide acclaim, but it too demonstrated that much can be accomplished when people come together.

The event attracted 1,200 chemists from 40 countries, who came to hear more than 70 podium presentations, view more than 400 posters, visit with nearly 70 exhibitors and soak in all that Paris, the City of Light, has to offer. Of course, organizers were confident that the program was strong enough to keep attendees inside Palais des Congrés, and out of the cafes, museums and shops along the Champs Élysées.

The event opened with presentations by IFSCC president Jadir Nunes, IFSCC vice president Claudie Willemin, who also serves as president of the Sociéte Française de Cosmétologie, and Gérard Redziniak, chairperson of the steering committee. Speakers noted that the diverse program encompassed a range of sciences including psychology, physiology, biology, physics and, of course, chemistry.

Neurocosmetics and Beauty
The diversity of topics was evident from the opening keynote address delivered by Christine Petit, College de France, who discussed senses and sensitivity and sensory disorders.

“Don’t think of the senses separately,” she told the audience. “Most interactions in life are multisensory.”

She explained how learning takes place due to the plasticity of synapses growing and evolving. That evolution is apparent on the skin too, where over two square meters, messages regarding pain, pressure, stress and texture are constantly occurring. In fact, Petit noted that repetitive stimulation reorganizes the sensory map.

She reviewed how, more than 40,000 years ago, early humans drilled holes in bones to make flutes and create music, which can play an important role in keeping the brain functioning at a high level.

In fact, no less than Charles Darwin, in his memoirs, lamented that music didn’t play a bigger role in his life.

“…if I had to live my life again I would have made a rule to read some poetry and listen to some music at least once every week; for perhaps the parts of my brain now atrophied could thus have been kept active through use,” Darwin penned.

L’Oréal’s Dominic Bernard echoed the theme of interconnectivity. His team used the multi-omics approach, including transcriptomics, proteomics, metabolomics and interactomics, to identify more precisely biological dysfunctions and to discover unexpected targets. L’Oréal has applied multi-omics to discover new biomarkers of skin aging and new cosmetic actives for “next generation” anti-aging products.

“Proteomics enabled us to characterize skin barrier modification during aging,” he explained. “Quantitative proteomics helps to demonstrate the benefits of applying a new cosmetic composition.

L’Oréal performed an in vivo Transcriptomic analysis to determine the dynamics of gene expression during skin repair after surface aggression. Bernard explained how employing multi-omic tools enables researchers to select the best active cosmetic ingredients in in vitro skin models and evaluate their performance in complete formulas in vivo. By utilizing all of these tools, one day, chemists will be able to create personalized treatments for consumers, he concluded.

During the evaluation phase, complementary testing is imperative, explained Philip Mondon of Sederma. He noted that oily skin increases lipid release and fuel p. acnes formation, causing follicular hyperkeratinzation.  Using in vitro and in vivo methods, the Sederma team developed a treatment based on verbascoside (derived from lily), that reduced lipid storage. In vivo test results showed the active reduced the number of blemishes by 48% and reduced red spots by 38% after one month.

Am I Beautiful?
One of the key beauty measurements is facial contrast; i.e., the contrast between facial features and the surrounding skin. Although this contrast varies between ethnicities, its decline with age is universal, noted Aurélie Porcheron of Chanel. Her team looked at 763 women, ages 20-70, in a group that included Caucasians, Asians, Blacks and Latin Americans. Individual faces were perceived as younger when these aspects of facial contrast were artificially increased, but older when these aspects of facial contrast were artificially decreased. These findings show that facial contrast plays a role in age perception, and that faces with greater facial contrast look younger.

“Facial contrast must be taken into account in the recommendation of cosmetics to enhance women’s beauty,” she concluded.
What makes one face more attractive than another? According to Philippe Humbert, University of Franche-Comté, facial beauty can be principally defined by three fundamentals:

• One, a preference for averageness and symmetry; i.e., the proximity to a spatially average face for a population;
• Two, a preference for sexual dimorphism; i.e., for feminine traits in female faces and masculine traits in male faces; and
• Three, a preference for youth and an absence of features of facial aging.

Obviously, when it comes signs of aging, wrinkles are no laughing matter. Yet, as Etsuko Watarai of Kao Corporation noted, the average person laughs 20 times a day and these facial movements lead to wrinkle formation.

“Most cosmetics are focused on oily shine and not on facial movement, even though the later makes people look older,” he noted.
To remedy these wrinkles, the Kao team reviewed 200 materials, put them in 10 groups and used multi-aggression analysis to evaluate them on characteristics such as adhesion, autohesion and high tensile elongation, and developed a cross-linked, elastic polymer that was approved by 71% of test subjects.

But not all ideas of beauty are universal. In a study of cross-cultural perception about aging, researchers learned that different cultures have different descriptors for ideal facial skin, explained Valentine Vincenot of LVMH, who conducted an online survey of 2500 women, ages 18-64, evenly selected from five large cosmetics markets (China, South Korea, Japan, France and the US). For example, “healthy” is a term that defines beauty in China, France and the US, while Koreans opt for “fair/white” and Japanese for “transparent.”

“The Japanese demand transparency,” said Vincenot. “For the other four countries, even skin tone is important, combined with a fair complexion in Korea.”

Here are the top 5 descriptors of ideal facial skin for each country:

China—healthy; watery glow; elastic; fine texture; uniform and even skin tone.

South Korea—fair/white; fine texture; elastic; uniform, even skin tone; and fresh.

Japan—transparent; fine texture; hydrated; fine, not thick; and firm.

France—healthy; hydrated; fine texture; uniform, even skin tone; and radiant.

US—healthy; uniform, even skin tone; hydrated; no wrinkles or lines; and radiant.

Wrinkle-free skin is a beauty staple, as is luxurious hair. Jennifer Marsh of Procter & Gamble reported on the damaging effect that copper and iron have on hair proteins and lipids. In fact, copper and iron can be found at levels of 400-500ppm on hair tips, with tap water being the primary source of these elements. These elements liberate SI00A3 from the hair cuticle.

Greentech chemists have developed a natural alternative to ZPT-based dandruff treatments. According to Rachida Nachat-Kappes, Zizphus joazeiro bark extract contains saponins that gently remove dandruff flakes while preserving the skin barrier function of the scalp. The material relieves scalp irritation and itching, purifies the scalp, normalizes sebum production and replenishes the scalp’s hydrolipid film, according to Nachat-Kappes.

Sustainable and Beautiful
Every cosmetic chemist is searching for novel materials to create formulations that improve skin and hair, but the most successful companies are conducting these studies sustainably.

“The world is moving toward business for good—not just business for profit,” explained William Russell of Columbia University, who delivered a keynote address on Day 2.

But in order to find those solutions, researchers, politicians and consumers must have the proper tools to dissect the problem. He told the audience that to find answers to today’s complex problems requires three key attributes:

• Systemic thinking;
• Deep listening; and
• Elevated consciousness.

“How are you listening?” he asked the audience. “If you disagree with what I say, you may turn me off. When we listen without judgment, with empathy and put ourselves in others shoes, we can mine the gold in any conversation and take something away from it.”

Companies can mine the gold that comes with effective sustainability efforts too, according to Russell, insisting that 80% of company’s stock price is due to intangibles such as goodwill and reputation. In those areas, sustainability plays a key role.
“Sustainability is profitable,” he insisted.

He cited several successful sustainability programs in the personal care industry, including Johnson & Johnson’s biodiversity initiative and Procter & Gamble’s Zero Manufacturing Waste to Landfill goals.

“Your industry is one of the best (at sustainability),” he observed. “Personal care is a perfect industry to develop sustainable jobs.”
But more can and must be done. Russell insisted that companies must radically collaborate and urged companies to join Business Alliance for the Future, a collaborative ensemble that is dedicated to catapulting the emerging “business for good” movement through unprecedented collaboration.

“We need people to thrive, so corporations need to get involved,” he concluded. “Let’s move beyond wealth and power to well-being. Nature needs to flourish; let’s answer the world’s call.”

Johnson & Johnson answered that call when it took a green chemistry approach to develop Natrasurf PS-111, an ultra-mild polymeric surfactant that minimizes environmental impacts throughout its life cycles, according to Michael Fevola of J&J. The material is 90% renewable and readily biodegradable; is non-penetrating and non-irritating for maximum mildness and has good foaming characteristics.

According to Fevola, PS-111 helps formulators create very mild personal care products, while reducing the products’ environmental footprints.

By using all of the scientific tools at their disposal, cosmetic chemists are developing a range of sustainable, effective skin and hair care products. 

Upcoming Events Make Some Noise • With an audience of more than 1,200 to play to, organizers of the upcoming IFSCC Conference and Congress made their presence felt at the 28th IFSCC Congress in Paris. Alphorn players (below, top photo) heralded the coming of the 2015 Conference, which will be held Sept. 21-23 in Zürich, Switzerland. At the bottom, the US organizing committee, including (l-r): David Smith, SCC; Dawn Burke Colvin, Mary Kay, Inc.; Guy Padulo, Kobo Products, Inc. and Amy Wyatt, Chanel, Inc., shared details of the 2016 Congress, which will be held Oct. 23-26, 2016 in Walt Disney World, Orlando, FL.